As the horseman Tenzin lights a fire, Cranky gets his hope up for thawing his feet at their campsite at 3870 meters. The air temperature measures - 4°C but feels much colder due to a light breeze blowing from the glacier above.

The morning brings the smell of fire and sight of smoke in the valley. A smoldering gap the size of a city block opens where the stores were where we had bought trekking provisions just last night. The town's only fire engine was overwhelmed by the flames right in the heart of town. Dreary residents stumble around after a night of trying to rescue what they could. Two people perished and 14 had minor injuries due to the fire.